Author: Gail Unzelman

In 20th Century California wine lore, there is probably no winery more famous, more advertised, or more visited than Italian-Swiss Colony in northern Sonoma County, 85 miles north of San Francisco. Established in 1881, its 2500-acre site was located on the gentle slopes of the Russian River Valley between Geyserville and Cloverdale on the line of the Northwestern Pacific Railroad. They called it Asti. The agricultural colony was the brainchild of Andrea Sbarboro (1840–1923), a prosperous S.F. businessman who felt the need to help his fellow Italian immigrants in the depressed business conditions of the day.

California’s northernmost coastal county have not attracted many winegrowers in its history. There are, however, small sheltered valleys like the Smith River Valley, where such an undertaking can survive — though vineyard statistics were most often counted in number of vines rather than acres.