The Wine History Project

The Louis Roesch Company was one of more than fifty major printing and lithography firms in San Francisco around 1906, which together employed over five thousand workers. Roesch was a pioneering and prominent craftsman who specialized in high-quality lithographic labels and posters, especially for California’s booming agricultural and wine industries.

Millionaire Finnish sea Captain Gustave Niebaum (1842–1908) had made his fortune early in the Alaska fur trade, and was solidly established in San Francisco running his Alaska Commercial Company when he purchased a Rutherford property called “Inglenook” in 1879. He added a thousand adjoining acres by1881, and soon began planting his vineyard to premium varieties brought from France. Niebaum was a perfectionist, student, and linguist (five languages), he studied the world’s viticulture, surveyed methods of constructing and equipping wineries, and amassed an important wine library. His mission was to produce “the best California wines ever placed on the market.” As his winery was being constructed, Niebaum stated, “I have no wish to make any money out of my vineyard by producing a large quantity of wine at a cheap or moderate price. I am going to make a California wine that will be sought after by connoisseurs and will command as high a price as the famous French, German and Spanish wines, and I am prepared to spend all the money needed to accomplish that result.”

In the years following the Gold Rush, the grain fields of Napa Valley were giving way to vineyards, and wine was being made – not the wine that was to make Napa Valley famous – but wines still made in the primitive manner of the Spanish missionaries, trod out by foot for home consumption. The man who introduced modern winemaking into Napa Valley was Charles Krug (1825-1892), a young teacher and free-thinker from Prussia who arrived in San Francisco in 1852 to be the editor of Staats Zeitung, the first German-language newspaper on the west coast. Impressed by California’s agricultural expansion, Krug soon left his editorial desk to pursue a career in farming, and the new field of winegrowing. He met Agoston Haraszthy and followed him to Sonoma where he bought land, planted a vineyard, and learned to make wine.

Chiles Valley is a narrow, remote little valley of 6,000 acres nestled in the Vaca Mountains above the northeast side of Napa Valley, a rugged fifteen miles east of St Helena or Rutherford. Col. Joseph Ballinger Chiles (1810–1885), the enterprising trail-blazer from Kentucky, gave the valley his name. He was granted the 8500-acre Catacula Rancho in 1844 and built his home ten years later. While primarily a cattleman, by 1860 he had “planted a small vineyard, made a little wine, and had 280 gallons of wine on hand” [Peninou, Directory…1860, the earliest record available.] Col. Chiles also built here the first grist mill in Northern California and brought in the first Missouri mules, among other pioneering endeavors.

Santa Clara County is one of the original counties of California formed at the time of statehood in 1850. Located at the southern end of San Francisco Bay, stretching west to the Santa Cruz Mountains and easterly past San Jose to Alameda County, its southern boundary is near Gilroy — almost 840,000 acres perfect for wine growing. Between 1856 and 1887 the county’s grape acreage grew from 220 acres to nearly ten thousand. The early settlers bought land and created a modern eden of orchards, nurseries, ranches and vineyards in all sections of the fertile valley. By the mid-1880s the Santa Clara Valley was one of the leaders in the state’s production of high-quality table wines. Several revered wine figures were instrumental in the industry’s founding — Delmas, Lefranc, Masson, Stanford, Mirassou, Pellier. Yet the earliest vineyard keepers in this magnificent land were the padres at Mission Santa Clara de Asis founded January 1777, number eight in the Franciscan chain of twenty-one Alta California Missions.

My long search for the story of this treasured postcard has remained elusive and inconclusive. Sadly, the sender of this very rare and unusual wine exhibit postcard did not comment on the beautiful, elaborately decorated scene: a Chinese gentleman tending a well-set table display of Cresta Blanca wines in San Francisco’s prestigious Fairmont Hotel. My research noted several California wine promotion “exhibits” held at different City venues during the years 1910 to 1913 reported in the PW&SR, but no Cresta Blanca at the Fairmont. With the postcard being stamped with the “1915 P.P.I.E.” advertising cancel, it suggests the eye-catching exhibit was installed in the Fairmont Hotel as a pre-Exposition promotion, to perhaps even remain for the duration of the Fair? Here are my thoughts.