NOTE: In this episode of our wine country postcard stories, several of my most favorite and treasured cards share their wine lore, with a toast to the rich viticultural history of San Luis Obispo County.

When California attained statehood in 1850 and established the County of San Luis Obispo, grape growing and wine making already had been actively pursued a short few years after 1772. This is the founding date of Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, the fifth Mission of the twenty-one established in Alta California by the Franciscans between 1769 and 1823. The San Luis Obispo wine industry was born at the Mission. Today, in 2024, the celebration of grapes and wine is firmly entrenched in this premier Central Coast wine country with 35,000 acres planted to vineyards and a total of sixteen different American Viticultural Appellations and Sub-Appellations.

Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, San Luis Obispo

Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, San Luis Obispo, Est 1772 

In his masterful Wine in California :: The Early Years:: Mission Wines 1698–1846, historian Charles Sullivan summarized several early sources to give us a picture of Mission San Luis Obispo wine activities. In the early part of his history, Sullivan noted that the first grape vines did not arrive from Spain until 1778, and the first wine was made in 1781. The San Luis Obispo Mission vineyard, covering forty-four acres (only Mission San Gabriel being larger), was located “on San Luis Creek, directly across from the Mission church, and enclosed by a wall and a row of olive trees.” By 1801, the Mission was making wine, and as later reported in 1827, “the officers at the San Francisco Presidio were drinking brandy produced at San Luis Obispo.” The beautiful hand-colored c1910 postcard shows the Mission with its roof of red clay tiles, said to have been first manufactured and used here after the local Native Americans shot fiery arrows into the original woven tule rooftop.

Asistencia Santa Margarita de Cortona

At Asistencia Santa Margarita de Cortona, c1890

Some ten miles north of Mission San Luis Obispo, just over the Questa, is the historic Santa Margarita Rancho, first established as the farm and rancho for Mission San Luis Obispo to grow crops and graze cattle. Later, a roughly constructed stone and mortar building was added, and the rancho was elevated to an “Assistance Mission” or Asistencia, a smaller sub-mission without a resident priest. Grains, hay, and cattle were the principle products at Santa Margarita. Historian Sullivan does not mention any wine growing activities here. Certainly, the large vineyard and winemaking operation at the “Mother” Mission in San Luis Obispo took care of these necessities. After secularization in 1834 and in private hands, grape vines would be planted on the rancho. (See “Mission Grapes at Estrada Gardens” below.) It was exciting to locate this quite rare Asistencia postcard in the archives of the Santa Margarita Historical Society. Portrayed is a great vintage scene of a c1890 outing to the “Ruins of Santa Margurita” [sic]. The card was produced around 1908 by Paul Koeber Co., an early and prolific postcard publisher with offices in New York and in Germany, where most all U.S. postcards were sent for the best hand-coloring. Today, Santa Margarita Rancho is an active cattle ranch growing wine grapes and making wine, while the historic 137′ x 37′ Asistencia, roofless, stands under a protective barn-like structure, first built in 1904 and upgraded in 2005. (My warmest appreciation is extended to SMHS for their helpful enthusiasm and generous sharing.)

Mission San Miguel Arcangel

Mission San Miguel Arcangel, Founded 1797

Mission San Miguel, founded in 1797 and the sixteenth in the El Camino Real chain, was strategically located about 40 miles north of Mission San Luis Obispo as a stop on the trail to Mission San Antonio de Padua, another 40 miles north in Monterey County. Historian Sullivan reports that Mission San Miguel had two large vineyards, one of twenty-two acres located three miles northeast of the Mission at Rancho El Aguage; the other, Rancho Santa Ysabel near the church, numbered 5500 vines. Inside the enclosed church garden there was a small planting of about 160 vines. Sullivan also tells us the padres produced good wine and brandy, in “considerable quantities.” For this information, he credits Alfred Robinson’s 1846 Life in California, an influential early description of California society, including life at the Missions. Although, Sullivan continues, “there is almost no record of the Mission’s winegrowing activities.”

Wine Vat at Mission San Antonio de Padua

Wine Vat At Mission San Antonio de Padua, Founded 1771

We will take a short 40-mile side trip into Monterey Co. to visit Mission San Antonio and a 1960s postcard view of an “Original Wine Vat” where “Grapes Crushed in Vat, Juice Flowed through Open Drain to Barrels in Cellar.” The back caption tells us “The Wine Vat is lined with copper from Spain, and the Grapes were crushed by foot in the vat. Juice flowed through filtered clay pipes into barrels in the wine cellar.” Postcard images of how the Mission padres made wine are quite rare and this postcard is treasured because of its visual hint. The vat, behind the wall, can be seen from the top of the steps when you explore the site. Mission San Antonio is located west of the Salinas Valley in an oak-covered valley in the Santa Lucia Mountains, well off the beaten path of El Camino Real. With its huge land holdings, the Mission’s agricultural activities were scattered among no fewer than ten outlying ranchos. The first vineyard was not planted until the 1790s, but eventually there were at least three grape growing sites, and clear evidence of winemaking and brandy distilling. An 1845 inventory listed two wine presses and two stills. The 1854 Black Survey Map shows a large vineyard of 4400 vines near the church. Today, in its panoramic and unspoiled setting, and an almost fully-restored quadrangle, it is one of the most authentic and inviting of the Missions.

Mission Grapes at Estrada Gardens, near San Luis Obispo

Mission Grapes At Estrada Gardens, Near San Luis Obispo, c1910

In 1834, the secularization of the Mission lands ushered in a new era for Central Coast grapes and wines (and for the other California wine countries as well). In 1841, Joaquin Estrada (1815–1893) was granted the great 17,750-acre Santa Margarita Rancho. The young Don, described as a “notable man and picturesque character,” became known for hosting epic rodeos and fiestas and the “early California rancho hospitality.” In 1861, from casualties of drought and debt, Estrada sold his vast rancho and bought 160 acres two miles north of San Luis Obispo at the foot of the Questa. He called it Estrada Gardens. Over the years, he served as a dedicated County official, hosted frequent festive barbeques and picnics, planted a vineyard, and made wine at his popular Gardens until about 1890. Historian Peninou wrote in 1965, “visitors as late as 1937 reported seeing traces of the old vines.” Shortly after Estrada’s death in 1893, local businessman Herman Mehlmann purchased the splendid property with ranch improvements and a first-class weekend resort in mind. The awaited Grand Opening of Estrada Gardens in summer 1898 drew a huge crowd who also took note of the ranch’s impressive new orchards of 600 lemon and 400 walnut trees. Also planted was a new vineyard of 2500 Mission (Listán Prieto) grape vines (nearly three acres), as shown in this exciting postcard “Mission Grapes at Estrada Gardens.” The photographer of this historic image was Frank Aston, a valued San Luis Obispo citizen and prolific photographer from 1906–1947. He documented many area activities and historical scenes and became the official photographer of Cal Poly San Luis Obispo in 1909. — Note: While there are a good number of vintage postcard views of early 20th-century vineyards or grapes, I have found only two postcards that identify the vines as “Mission” grapes. “Grand Opening” coverage, see Tribune March 1898.

St. Remy Vineyard, Arroyo Grande, Saucelito Canyon,

St. Remy Vineyard, Arroyo Grande, Saucelito Canyon, 1905

The fascinating and pioneering history of St. Remy Winery & Vineyard is a tale of two plots — two San Luis Obispo Co. neighboring ranchos settled in the 1800s in the upper Arroyo Grande Valley. And two families. In 1878 English-born Henry Ditmas (1845–92) and his wife Rosa (1850–1927) purchased a 560-acre parcel he called Rancho Saucelito, and planted Zinfandel — the first documented Zinfandel vineyard in the County. Not long after in 1883, New York-born Abram B. Hasbrouck (1845–1915) purchased the adjoining 4400-acre Rancho Arroyo Grande and named it St. Remy — in honor of his grandfather Bruyn’s estate in Holland. He planted 30 acres to Zinfandel and built a stone winery in 1885, the first winery in the upper Valley, and a four-hour carriage trip from town. He also raised cattle and developed very successful dairy and cheese businesses, while his land holdings grew to some 9000 acres. In 1886 Henry and Rosa divorced, and Rancho Saucelito became hers. When Abram and Rosa married a year later, she and her young son Cecil moved into the St. Remy house. Flourishing vineyards and award-winning wines continued into the new century at St. Remy until 1915, when phylloxera destroyed them, the same year Hasbrouck died. Cecil Ditmas, upon his mother’s death in 1927, inherited both properties and became a cattle rancher… Fast forward to 1974 — Bill and Nancy Greenough purchased Rancho Saucelito from Henry Ditmas’ granddaughters, resurrected and refurbished the old vineyard, and today run their family wine operation as Saucelito Canyon Vineyard & Winery. In 1990 Arroyo Grande was given its own AVA. (See Libbie Agran, “Wine History Project SLO” for the full, grand story.)

The Gardens at St. Remy Vineyard

The Gardens At St. Remy Vineyard, 1905

In 1905, from their “summer camp” at Avila Beach, Rosa Hasbrouck sent personal messages to family in England using St. Remy real-photo postcards. One view captures the vineyard in its isolated, hilly domain, the other features the beautiful gardens of manicured lawns and hedges, with favorite rose and flower gardens. These are the only two St. Remy postcards ever seen and amazingly, they are both written by ‘R.C.H.’ from Avila. Talk about true wine postcard treasures. (‘Madge’ in the message is Madge Ditmas of According to Madge. Early Times in … listed under “Sources” — Rosa’s daughter-in-law.)

San Ignacio Rancho and Ignacy Jan Paderewski

San Ignacio Rancho And Ignacy Jan Paderewski, Paso Robles, c1920

Ignacy Jan Paderewski. (1860–1941), the extremely handsome, world-renowned Polish pianist and patriot, first visited Paso Robles in 1913 seeking treatment for “stiffness in his hands” at the famous healing natural mud baths and mineral hot springs. Early the next year, he bought a 2,000-acre spread just west of town, naming it Rancho San Ignacio after his patron saint. Within a few years he added the 900-acre Rancho Santa Helena. In the early 1920s, after consulting with Prof. Bioletti at the University of California about soils and grapevine varieties, Paderewski planted 200 acres of the rancho to Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. The notable pioneer grower and advocate of these prime varieties in the Central Coast area, Paderewski’s award-winning wines went on to establish Paso Robles reputation for wine production before Prohibition. Since 1993 his wine and music are celebrated in Paso Robles each November at the Paderewski Festival. Epoch Estate Wines have revived the historic vineyards and proudly preserve Paderewski’s legacy.

Pesenti Winery Tasting Room Sign

Pesenti Winery Tasting Room, Templeton, c1960s

Frank Pesenti (1896–1983) arrived in San Luis Obispo Co. from his native Northern Italy village in 1914, and worked making charcoal until he was able to purchase in 1919 the vineyard land he had had his eyes on. Three years later, he and his wife Caterina began planting their rolling hillsides near Templeton to Zinfandel vines. As it happened, they were neighbors of the Swiss-Italian Rotta brothers, Joe & Clement — the first in the area to plant a field blend dominated by Zinfandel whose rustic jug wines became legendary. Pesenti maintained his vineyards during the Prohibition years, selling his grapes to the Basque population in Central California; he also made two hundred gallons of wine annually, the legal limit per household. Frank used his early mason skills to make bricks to build his winery, the first one to be bonded in the county in 1934 following Repeal. Pesenti “Old-Vine” Zinfandel developed a hearty, faithful following of “jug” wine devotees, and most of the winery’s 140,000-case production was sold within the county.

Pesenti Vineyard, Templeton

Pesenti Vineyard, Templeton, c1960s

A gnarly, old head-pruned vine is a thing of beauty, a natural architectural wonder. When this postcard was issued in the early ‘60s, the second generation of the family-run Pesenti winery had begun tending the vineyards and making the wines almost twenty years before, with son Victor and son-in-law Aldo. By the end of the 1990s, third-generation grandson Frank Nerelli was the winemaker when, in 2000, Napa Valley’s Turley Wine Cellars purchased Pesenti, saying it is “probably the most spectacular vineyard in California … on a 48 per cent slope, with head-trained Zinfandel planted in the ‘20s.” They announced the old-vine Zinfandel vineyard would carry on, as would winemaker Frank Nerelli and the Pesenti label.

Hoffman Mountain Ranch Winery [HMR] Barrels
Hoffman Mountain Ranch Winery [HMR] Stainless Steel Barrels

Hoffman Mountain Ranch Winery [HMR] In 1970s

Dr. Stanley Hoffman (1920–2017), a cardiologist from Southern California, is hailed as the pioneer of modern-day wine technology in San Luis Obispo County and the Central Coast. Since purchasing his 1200-acre Adelaida Road property west of Paso Robles in 1961, his achievements are genuinely noteworthy. He began planting his vineyard in 1964 — the first Pinot Noir, Cabernet and Chardonnay vines in the county. Napa Valley’s internationally renowned Andre Tchelistcheff was hired as wine consultant, another county first. The first vintage of HMR wines was 1972 in the newly constructed wine facility, the county’s first modern commercial winery to be built after Prohibition. Tchelistcheff recommended the newly designed stainless-steel fermenting tanks and state-of-the-art equipment, the most modern winemaking resources available. Gold and Double-Gold medals were awarded in international competition in 1979, bringing acclaim for the Adelaida District, Paso Robles, and San Luis Obispo County.

SOURCES 

Libbie Agran & Heather Muran. San Luis Obispo County Wine. A World-Class History. 2021.

Madge Ditmas. According to Madge. Early Times in … and The Arroyo Grande Valley. 1983.

Ernest Peninou. History of the Los Angeles Viticultural District, 2004. San Luis Obispo County, p.84-91; SLO Statistics, p.105-. Note: In 1880, California was divided into seven geographic viticultural districts by the State Legislature / California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners. Wine historian Ernest Peninou used these designated districts to compile a descriptive and statistical review of California’s wine industry: The History of the Viticultural Districts of California and A Statistical History of Wine Grape Acreage in California, 1856-1992. As drawn-up, the Los Angeles District included eight counties: Imperial, Los Angeles / Orange, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and Ventura. Most activity was centered in Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties. This invaluable Peninou archive is available online via The Wayward Tendrils Quarterly website.

Cheri Roe & Santa Margarita Historical Society. Santa Margarita. Arcadia, 2016.

Chas. Sullivan. Wine in California :: The Early Years :: Mission Wines 1698–1846. Online: Wayward Tendrils Quarterly, v.20 #2, #3, #4 2010; v.21 #1 2011.

Edw. W. Vernon. Asistencia Santa Margarita de Cortona. An Architectural Study. 2012.

Msgr. Francis J. Weber. Santa Margarita de Cortona Asistensia. 2003.

Sean C. Weir. The Mad Crush. A Memoir of Mythic Vines & Improbable Winemaking. 2015 (Greenough, Saucelito Canyon Winery).